In late October of this year I got married and flew off to travel around Panama and Costa Rica with my wife for our honeymoon. Fortunately, my wife's Aunty has a house in the Bocas Del Toro area of Panama which is situated in an archipelago of islands all surrounded by mangrove swamps, coral reefs and and the most incredibly clean water you could imagine.
Located in the north-west of the country just 15 miles from the Costa Rican border, the Bocas Del Toro province is fairly remote. For many years the only way in or out was by plane until a new road was constructed connecting this region to the rest of the country.
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| Aunty Sue's house in the Jungle |
The Caribbean side is far less populated than the Pacific side mostly due to the tropical weather patterns. The rain rarely lets up on the Caribbean side whereas on the Pacific coast there is a largely dry spell from December through to April. Many of the Indigenous Indians are still based on the Caribbean coast as they have been for centuries. The Spanish influence is felt far more on the Pacific side.
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| Sunset over the Caribbean |
Panama literally means 'an abundance of fish' and has had my fishy radar twitching for some years now. I nearly went there on a fishing trip in 2006 but it got switched at the last minute and a decision was made to go to India instead. It was a good feeling to finally be heading to Panama and the coincidence of now having family to stay with further sweetened the whole affair.
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| Panama City |
My wife is very understanding of my fishy obsession and had no issues with me filling my bag with fishing tackle to take with me even though it was our honeymoon. I think had I left it all at home then I may have gone totally crazy! The more I researched the fishing before we left the more excited I became. Panama really has it all when it comes to salt water sport-fishing.
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| The wildlife was incredible, these Humming Birds were a common sight |
The beauty of Panama is it's a small country bordering the two biggest oceans in the world. In theory it would be possible to fish the morning in the Caribbean, drive across the mountains and then be fishing in the Pacific by the afternoon. Both oceans have very different characteristics and fish species which gives plenty of variety for the adventurous fisherman. There is a lot of water to be getting on with!
The Pacific side is famous for the quality of it's fishing. It has a world class Marlin and Tuna fishery as well as many other pelagic species - Mahi Mahi, Sailfish, Wahoo and the like. The inshore waters are teaming with Jacks, Rooster Fish, Snook, Snapper and Barracuda's. There are many 5 star fishing lodges based on this coast where huge boats take people out after the pelagic giants. This doesn't come cheap though, in many cases $3000 to $4000 for a 4 night stay! It really is world class sport they are offering here though.
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| These tiny red frogs were everywhere in the jungle |
The one species that really got me excited about the Caribbean side however was the Atlantic Tarpon. The Silver King as it is known. They are probably one of the most well known sport fish in the world, growing to over 200lb and having a tendency to fight hard and go fully airborne, jumping like crazy. I was very keen to tangle with one of these impressive beasts and with a little research I soon found someone in the Bocas Del Toro area that might be able to help me.
After googling around on the internet I found a guy who ran a small sport fishing charter service out of Bocas town. He was a Hawaiian ex-pat by the name of Scott and had his own Panga boat. After much chatting over the e-mail and using Google Earth I concluded that there were a couple of remote estuary systems dumping out in to the open ocean between Bocas Del Toro and the Costa Rican border. This seemed like the perfect spot to locate a Tarpon and Scott confirmed that the fish were there and were indeed a viable target. The only difficulty is getting them to stay on the hook! They have incredibly hard mouths and a reputation for throwing the hook when they jump.
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| The Caribbean side of Costa Rica |
That was enough for me and after making a deal with Scott we just had to hope the weather played ball when I arrived. November is typically a windy and wet month in the Caribbean which makes it difficult to get out into the open ocean. As usual we were in the lap of the weather gods here.
On arrival and after meeting up with Scott, he informed me that the weather was forecast to be settled for the coming week which would be perfect for getting out to the Tarpon spots. I was delighted at this news and Scott suggested that there was a perfect window of opportunity regarding the tides in a further 3 days time. This was to be my first experience of Tarpon fishing.
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| Pelicans have a good life in Panama...plenty to eat there! |
The day finally arrived. As we sped out of Bocas towards the Tarpon spots we detoured to a couple of other marks to pick up some bait . Live-bait is about the most effective method for Tarpon and we were fortunate enough to feather up a load, filling the live-well in no time. Once the tank was full we opened up the engines and headed off up the coast.
On nearing the estuary the colour of the water changed as the brown run-off from the land met the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean, this is where we should find the Tarpon. They love the influence of the fresh water and use the colour to their advantage to ambush prey.
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| Up close and personal with Mr Sloth in the mangrove swamps |
I scanned the water as we motored in close and was immediately greeted by a flash of silver in the distance. The Tarpon were there and that was the sight of the tropical sun reflecting off it's shimmering scales as it leapt. Not something I'm going to forget in a hurry.
We set the boat up to drift out from the mouth of the river with the current, covering ground as we went. The technique was simple, just freelined live-baits over the side of the boat as we drifted silently. After 10 minutes the line started ripping through my fingers, so I wound down and set the hook into my first fish. It all happened so fast, but fortunately everything went to plan and the unseen fish tore off at a rate of knots.
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| A Frigate Bird scans the water for signs of fish |
After making a head shaking leap, it was obvious I was attached to my first Tarpon. The fish gave a good account of itself and I got a workout on my 30lb class gear. It was tearing off on some incredible runs and looked to be all of 40lb which is a small one in the grand scheme of things. Within ten minutes I had the fish to the boat, unhooked, photographed and returned. A first for me, I couldn't have been happier and the pressure was now off a little. First drift and we were into the fish. It's always nice when a plan comes together!
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| My first ever Tarpon, jumped and boated. Estimated at 40lb and released |
We fished on and were pestered by small sharks taking our live-baits, some 6 or 7 came to the boat when they didn't manage to bite through the 80lb leaders. I think they were Black Tips and even though not the target species, they kept us busy. I was thoroughly enjoying the whole experience, the only issue for me was the sun. Being so close to the equator it was silly hot during the middle of the day and I certainly got through some sunscreen!
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| One of many sharks that paid us a visit |
After a few more drifts and in between the sharks I had a really good run and bent in to another cracking fish. This one didn't jump at all and was fighting differently to the Tarpon. Very stubborn and diving for the bottom under the boat all the time. I called it as a Jack from the way it was fighting and Scott agreed. Once it hit the surface our suspicions were confirmed when a near 20lb Jack Crevalle was gaffed and brought aboard. I was equally happy with this fish, another first and dinner for us all.
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| A hard fighting Jack Crevalle that gave me the run around under the boat |
The last bit of action that day came when another Tarpon nailed a bait, but this was a much bigger fish. It leapt almost immediately looking well over 120lb and proceeded to strip 150 yards of braid from the reel. We started the boat and tried to keep up with the fish but unfortunately it managed to throw the hook. That's Tarpon fishing for you! And with that we called it a day, heading back to Bocas for a well earned beer.
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| The local brew - Balboa |
The weather window continued in our favour so I went out again with Scott a couple of days later to take advantage of the good conditions. Everyone we spoke to said they expected the winds and rains to come any day so it made sense to have another bite at the cherry while we could. We went out to the same spots and fished the live-baits once again, this time with a friend of Scott's called Bob.
At first I threw a few lures about in the river mouth and managed to catch some small Mackerel, Barracudas and Catfish before spotting a huge Tripletail in the water. I cast at the fish with a bucktail jig and it sucked the lure up on the first cast. This fish was well over 20lb and a very good specimen, it didn't fight too hard until it got to the boat and then for no reason at all the hook popped out. A real shame too, they are prehistoric looking creatures and I would have liked a few photos.
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| A Tarpon comes to the boat |
The Tarpon fishing was slow in comparison to the other day, we fished for nearly 4 hours without so much as a sniff around the baits. I was beginning to think it was going to be one of those days! Then out of the blue, my bait was away with line once again ripping through my fingertips. After solidly setting the hook the fish tore off on a huge run, making a couple of leaps. It was a Tarpon and a good one too. Easily twice the size of the one from the first day.
After several more spectacular leaps and long runs I finally got the fish back near the boat where it then stayed deep and plodded around for a good 15 minutes. Only then was I able to bring it along side for unhooking and a photo. This fish was far too big to be brought in to the boat. Estimated around 80lb and well over 20 minutes on the rod to subdue the beast. That fish was thoroughly enjoyable hard work and the biggest I have ever caught on a rod and line to date.
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| 80lb of hard fighting Tarpon at the boat |
This signalled the start of a good bit of action for us. Bob soon got a run and hooked into what can only be described as 'a horse'. Well over 100lb and very angry, after a couple of leaps it threw the hook...much to Bob's disapproval. I then also had another run but the fish dropped the bait before I managed to set the hook. It can be a frustrating business this Tarpon fishing.
At the end of the day, we were about to wind it up when Bob suggested one more drift for 10 minutes...just in case. Luck was definitely shining down on us as with about a minute to go my rod was off again. This turned out to be yet another 40lb class fish which again gave a great account of itself, wearing me out in the process. This signalled the end of the day and we returned back to port a bunch of happy anglers.
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| Boating about in the bays at Bocas |
Scott had Go-Pro video camera on the boat and was able to take some footage of me playing the Tarpon which I have edited together into a short movie. This movie can be seen here by clicking on the following link........
I went out fishing separately with Bob for a day as well. The plan was to take a boat and go up the small jungle rivers and mangrove creeks fishing for Snook and Snappers. He had an Indian friend called Rudi and he was to be our guide.
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| Up a jungle river with Rudi and Bob fishing for Snook |
This was proper back country fishing, well off the beaten track. There was no other way of entering these creeks other than by boat or canoe, the jungle and vegetation was so thick on the banks that access by foot was impossible.
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| Bob battles with a feisty Snook at the net |
The location was incredible but the fishing was a little slow on the first river in the jungle. I never even had a touch on my lure and that was after a good hour or so of trolling up and down. Bob's luck was a little fairer and he hooked a lovely Snook which put up a great fight in the coloured water. It's amazing how they can find the lure!
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| Bob with his prized Snook |
In the mangrove creeks the water was a lot clearer and looked much better for a fish or two. Bob was away first with a beautiful small Cubera Snapper that so nearly made the sanctuary of the roots hanging into the water.
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| Rudi, Bob and a beautiful Cubera Snapper |
I hooked a couple of good fish but lost one as the hook pulled and lost the other as it managed to snag me in some roots, cutting the line. It wasn't to be my day. No fish in the boat but an incredible experience none the less.
The only other fishing I did in the Bocas area was in the bays close to my wife's Aunties house on Bastimento Island. I fished from a kayak but other than a decent Bonito that gave me a good tussle on the light gear there wasn't really much to write home about. I feel the inshore bays have been fished out over the years. I spent days drifting around with live-baits out there and never once had a take. Only ever small snappers or barracudas (and I mean small) took my lures.
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| Heading home at the end of the day |
After a couple of weeks we left Panama's Caribbean, spending a few days sight seeing in Costa Rica before heading down to the Panamanian Pacific. I was very interested in taking a boat out on the Pacific side to see what would be keen on attacking my lures. We headed down to a quiet, remote area known as the Tuna Coast and started putting a few feelers out to see if I could find someone willing to take me out.
The general opinion was that it wasn't really the best time of year for the fishing there but that there were still plenty of Mahi Mahi, Wahoo and Bonito around.....sounds alright to me!!! I'd never caught any of these species so I was keen to have a go.
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| Pelicans sitting on the dock of the bay |
The owner of a hostel we were staying in had a friend with a boat and after a little chatting to her I found out that he had been fishing the local waters for over 30 years. This was like music to my ears and I asked if I could meet the guy. Within 5 minutes a nice fella called 'Lionel' arrived and I was soon using my best 'pidgeon spanish' to negotiate a deal for a day out on his boat.
Half an hour later I was on the beach and launching Lionels Panga with him for a day trolling the Pacific for pelagic species. Now, trolling is not exactly my favourite technique but Lionel assured me that this was the best option given the time of year. We motored around for nearly 5 hours through some horrendous downpours and saw a tornedo on the horizon. It was all rather exciting stuff.
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| A Tornado flies past in the distance followed by a thunder storm |
Initially, inshore the fishing was slow but things soon improved with a succession of Bonito Tuna coming to the boat as we trolled round a big island. They are really hard fighters for their size and I enjoyed catching them. We also hooked a Wahoo that shot off at great speed but the hooks didn't get a proper hold and we ended up retrieving a battle scarred lure full of teeth marks. Done again!
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| Lionel gets in on the Bonito action, what beautiful fish! |
In between the showers, Lionel assured me that the weather would clear later in the day and we'd be able to head way out over the horizon to target the Mahi Mahi (Dorado) some 10 miles offshore. In the meantime we enjoyed watching the tornado and storm moving away from us and managed to hook a beautiful Pacific Mackerel which was a pleasant surprise.
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| A beautiful Pacific Mackerel (Sierra) taken trolling a diving lure around an island |
Come lunch time the weather did clear and the relentless Panamanian sun came beating down on our backs. There was no cover on Lionel's little panga so we felt the heat out there, especially with the suns rays reflecting off the water as well. The break in the weather signalled that it was time to head out to see if the Mahi Mahi were in a feeding mood.
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| Lionel scans the water for signs of fish as we troll for Mahi Mahi |
The diving plugs were changed for skirted lead head lures that skip and bubble through the surface layers where the Mahi Mahi hunt for their prey. We steamed right out to the weed line many miles off shore and commenced trolling along the line of debris, tree trunks and flotsam that collects where the different currents meet. The Mahi Mahi like to hide beneath the junk and use it as a point of ambush to attack any passing prey.
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| A selection of skirted lures that are used to entice pelagic species such as the Mahi Mahi, Tuna and Sailfish |
A couple of hours passed and there was no action or follows to our lures, it seemed as if the ocean was devoid of fish out there. I could detect that Lionel was getting restless and frustrated with the lack of fish. Conditions were perfect and in recent days he had been catching plenty of Mahi Mahi, so you would have thought that they would be out there chasing down the lures.
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| Another Bonito comes on board to say hello |
It did take a while but eventually my right hand rod screamed off and as I looked behind the boat I was treated to the sight of a huge male Mahi Mahi leaping from the water. It was all lit up in incredible yellows, greens and electric blues as is characteristic of this pelagic species. It fought well and made several more leaps before being played out under the boat. At an estimate of 25lb this was a really good specimen and yet another first for me in Panama.
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| A 25lb Bull Dorado (Mahi Mahi) my first of the species ever - a good way to start! |
Catching this one was like opening the floodgates and in the next hour and a half another 4 good sized Mahi Mahi came to the boat before time ran out and we needed to head back. It was a good hour at full steam back in and I was pretty much speechless, just soaking up the atmosphere. The final tally for the day was 6 bonitos, 5 Mahi Mahi and a Pacific Mackerel. And this is the quiet time of year apparently!
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| Another Mahi Mahi comes aboard for unhooking by Lionel |
After chatting to Lionel I find out that in March and April the fishing is explosive. The weather mellows, the sun shines and the sardines run the coast. Hot on their heels are a hoard of hungry predators and the inshore fishing goes bananas. The techniques of popping and jigging come in to their own and the action can be real hot. The idea of catching Yellow Fin Tuna and huge Rooster Fish on poppers and giant hard fighting Amberjacks and Cubera Snappers on jigging gear has me literally drooling in anticipation. Next time I will be visiting in our spring for sure. I will be back......What a place!
